Owners of hunting dogs have supplying needs that pet owners do not necessarily have. Some of these include callers the field training, tracking collars, and often by callers. The good news is SportDog can meet all of those needs.

SportDog SD 400 Dog Training Collar

This training collar is made for corrective purposes. It will show your dog what is and isn’t acceptable, and train him to do a good job for your when hunting. Often, hunting dogs have to retrieve, stand, and point for another dog, so training is very important. The SD 400 training collar will help, utilizing 14 different levels of stimulation so that you can have a well-trained hunting dog. It is also very versatile, due to its waterproof receiver and transmitter on the collar, which means you can train your dog in wet areas or during rainy weather.

SportDog SD 400S Training Collar

The 400S offers a higher level of stimulation and is perfect for larger breeds or very stubborn dogs. All dogs are unique and sometimes the stimulation that works on one will not work for another. If all other training methods have failed, you’ll likely find that this one won’t. Remember that electronic training collars like the SportDOG SD 400S are safe and will not hurt your dog. Training your dog requires patience, consistency, and constant feedback on how he is doing.

SportDOG Bark Collar

A barking dog out on the field can quickly eliminate your chances of hunting. If you have a dog that barks at all the wrong moments, you know how frustrating it could be. With the SportDog bark collar, your dog will quickly learn that barking isn’t appropriate at certain times. With the use of a bark collar, your dog won’t ruin your chances and alert prey to run away. In a fairly short time, your dog will know to stay quiet. When this occurs, you won’t need the collar ever again.

With so many collars to choose from, a trusted brand is definitely a must and SportDOG is a very trusted brand on the market today. Whether you need a barking collar or a training collar, they’ve got the one for you.

This often fatal disease is very serious and is one of the most devastating diseases that any hunting dog faces. Heartworm prevention is simple and involves a food additive or a heartworm pill that your dog will actually think is a treat. Whether you elect to use a heartworm pill, a liquid or powder food additive or other option that your vet recommends, make sure you use it as instructed, whether that is weekly or monthly.

Heartworm Facts
Heartworm is a parasite that can live in your dog’s body and infest every major organ and tissue, including the heart—which is usually what kills the infected animal. Mosquitoes are the culprit most often found carrying heartworm that infects dogs, but dogs can also get heartworm from foxes, coyotes, and other animals. It’s hard to detect heartworm early on, which is why it can often become fatal.

Preventing Heartworm
Most veterinarians believe that dogs should be provided with preventative treatment year round. Since it’s fairly easy to give your dog heartworm preventative meds such as those mentioned earlier. Another way to help make sure your pet stays free from heartworm is to ensure that your pet, his bedding and his environment stay clean and free from debris that can attract mosquitoes.

Symptoms of Heartworm
One of the first symptoms you may notice is weight loss, lack of energy, or excessive coughs. As the parasite attacks the dog’s lungs or respiratory system, the cough will become more severe. And as it reaches other areas of the body, symptoms will worsen. In the first few months, the heartworm infection usually goes unnoticed because parasites are too busy propagating and haven’t yet spread to show the symptoms in the dog.

Diagnosis
Diagnosis of heartworm is done by a veterinarian and is usually accomplished by clinical observation and blood tests. Often, a “double test” will be done to find out if the infection is male or female—which will affect treatment. This also determines approximate worm count, which will tell how far advanced the infection is.

Treating Heartworm
After diagnosis, heartworm treatment must begin right away. Otherwise, the infected dog can spread the disease to other dogs. Treatment will vary depending on worm count and the stage of the disease. An otherwise healthy dog will most likely live through the treatment, but an unhealth one has almost no chance of surviving. Treatment may not work if the parasites have affected too many organs or if the worm count has become too high. Prevention and early treatment is the best way to treat heartworm.

If any other dogs are living with or around the infected dog, they should be tested immediately for heartworm as well. It spreads quickly from one dog to the next, so testing is important. People should be tested as well, as humans are also capable of getting heartworm.

While heartworm is a potentially deadly parasite, prevention is the secret to keeping your dog from contracting it.

It’s not uncommon for hunting dogs to get an ear infection in fact it’s a result of the size and depth of their ears. Because hunting dogs (gun dogs) spend so much time outdoors and have large, floppy ears, they are actually more prone to getting an ear infection. Infections in the ear are a result of yeast or bacteria which can grow in your dogs’ ear and eventually may wind up in the ear canal.

Symptoms of Otitis
Not only are ear infections painful, in extreme cases they may actually lead to your dog becoming deaf. There are some symptoms that you can be on the lookout for – some are basic behaviors of dogs that have ear infections while others are clinical symptoms. You should be aware if:

Discharge from the ears, usually yellow or green in color
Foul smell to the ear
Excessive scratching or head shaking

These early signs can get worse and becoming a serious infection. Once the infection begins to creep deeper into your dog’s ear, it will get into the inner ear and begin affecting your dog’s ability to keep his balance and to hear:

Disorientation
Disorientation of the dog
Awkward collapses or “drunken” state
Deafness
Strange movements of the eye, also known as “crazy eye”

If you recognize any of these symptoms, take your dog to the vet as soon as possible. The quicker it is diagnosed, the quicker you’ll be able to begin treatment. Quick treatment will save you money in the long run, as well as discomfort for your dog.

The diagnostic process for dogs ear infections are similar to those that are performed on our children, a scope is used to visually check the ear, a sample is taken with swab and the diagnosis is made. As a side note, please be aware that your dog may exhibit similar symptoms if they have ear mites.

Treating Ostitis
Your dogs’ ear infection may be treated in one of two of ways:

A) For a less serious infection your vet may suggest you treat the dog with hydrogen peroxide which you place directly in the ear;
B) For a more serious infection your dog may require a prescription antibiotic or other appropriate medications.

Regardless of the course of treatment that is recommended for your dogs ear infection, your vet is likely to perform a thorough cleaning of your dogs ears before the treatment begins, then they will give the initial dose of medication to show you how to use it and you’ll finish the course of treatment at home.

When you give the medication, which is usually squirted or poured into the dog’s ear, you will have to hold the dog down or have someone help you. Obviously, the dog won’t like this, but it needs to be done.

Because dogs cannot become immune to ear infections, you should watch carefully for the signs, even if you believe he is cured. Early action requires early detection, and makes the infection easier to handle.

In the summertime, it seems as if fleas are all over the place. Thankfully, you’ll be able to find an abundance of flea treatments pretty easily. One common product is pyrethrin which is safe to use as an insecticide. Another choice is IGR, or insect growth regulators, like methoprene and fenoxycarb which will stop eggs and larvae from becoming pupae. When using these and other treattments, treat both the hunting dogs and his areas simultaneously.

Fleas are difficult to kill – their pupa are resistant to most insecticides because of the cocoon they wrap themselves in – and this often results in new fleas being hatched about two weeks after you perform a treatment. What most people don’t realize is that the lifespan of a flea can vary from as little as two (2) weeks to as much as eight (8) months. If you fail to kill the pupa before they hatch you have to start the entire process all over again.

Flea Baths
Using a regular flea prevention shampoo can help with flea control. One thing to be careful about though is flea dips – especially if you have children in the house. Flea dips are very harsh and most leave a residue on your dog – they’re only recommended in cases of very extreme infestation and should be discussed with your veterinarian before use.

Spot On Medications
These easy to use once a month treatments are designed to kill adult fleas and are dispensed directly to your dogs skin beginning at the neck typically and going down the top of their back. Before you use this type of treatment, check and see if they also prevent the growth of eggs and/or larvae. Your dog should be at least two month old before you use this type of treatment and check the label for reduced potency if your dog is bathed often or enjoys swimming.

Pill Flea Treatment
Perhaps one of the easiest and most effective flea control is this one for the simple reason that it acts similar to birth control! These pills are effective for one month and they sterilize any flea that bites your dog preventing them from laying eggs before they die. The other advantage of this treatment is that it doesn’t wash off making it ideal for dogs that stay indoors.

Natural Methods
Today more and more of us are looking for more natural treatments for fleas. It’s really not that difficult to naturally treat fleas, it can be done with dried pennyroyal, pyrethrum powder or diatomaceous earth. The process is simple: Vacuum carpeting, furniture pillows and dg bedding, Get rid of the vacuum cleaner bag (throw it away or burn it), Wash all washable items in the hottest water that’s safe for the fabrics.

Clean from inside out
All of our dogs love to cuddle in their beds, on furniture and even on the carpeting. Unfortunately, these areas are favorite hiding spots for fleas as well. Vacuuming and treating all areas completely and thoroughly are the secret to success, however make sure that you don’t leave the bag in the vacuum or you’re just going to create a new nest for them. Your dog’s bed and bedding should be washed at least weekly in hot water to help prevent re-infestation.

In the outdoors, fleas usually stay in wet and shaded places like dog houses or kennels, flower beds, and underneath your deck or porch. If your pet spends time in these or other areas, treat the area. Also, rake and mow the lawn completely to keep fleas away. Rake up leaves from flower beds and beneath bushes to make insecticides more effective in these areas. Clean all pet kennels or carriers and make sure you vacuum the inside of your car. Garages, basements, and other rooms without carpetting should be mopped completely to kill flea larvae creeping in the cracks and crevices.

There are many foggers and sprays that are effective treatments of your home and yard. Read and follow the directions carefully. Heavily infested areas should be re-treated in 2 or 3 weeks.

Flea bites cause all kinds of problems for pets and people. Intense itching can lead to skin problems, hair loss and infections. A bad infestation can lead to anemia and tapeworms. Allergies to flea saliva can cause flea dermatitis. Getting rid of a flea infestation is imperative for the health of your pet. Following these steps will help your pet and your home stay flea free.

If you’re a breeder of hunting dogs, you’ve probably seen a dog whelp the puppies and expel her placenta with no problems. And with some rest and care, she can be back to her healthy, normal self. Although this is true when the mother dog is usually healthy and strong, there can be unforeseen complications, so postpartum care is something that all dog breeders should know and understand.

Once mom has successfully given birth it’s usually a good idea to take her to the vet just to verify that everything is fine. You should try to do this within a day of birthing and you might want to check with your vet to see if they think it’s a good idea to check out the puppies at the same time. For mom, you want to verify that she has no puppies remaining in her womb and that she has fully expelled the placenta. If mom isn’t checked out thoroughly and a baby or a part of the placenta is left in the womb mom could get a serious infection and if left unchecked she could become ill enough to succumb to infection. Often your vet will recommend a shot that will help make sure the uterus is clear and will also help mom let her milk down.

For the pups, temperature checks and physical checks can ensure that the babies are all in good health and that there are no immediate problems. For mom, make sure you watch for fever, lack of appetite and diarrhea after birth as these could be signs of a bacterial infection. Any symptoms should be immediately discussed with your veterinarian so that an antibiotic can be prescribed if needed.

Watch mother carefully for the first few days to be sure nothing unusual is happening. If she is to get sick after whelping, it will be during the first week after the puppies have come.

For your part, if all is going well, you will still need to concern yourself with your portion of the puppy’s and mother’s care. Keep their bedding area clean, replacing bedding daily and wiping up all messes as quickly as they occur. Keep everything as clean as possible, but be careful not to overuse cleaning products (especially bleach and similar) as these can cause eye and nose irritation in the newborns.

You should also watch out for eclampsia in the mother dog, which is a condition in which the body cannot produce the calcium needed for lactation. She will need to see the vet right away. Symptoms can include pain and discomfort, fever, sttiffness, and seizures. Also known as milk fever, this condition can happen around week three of lactating and can cause a serious threat. However, if you catch it early enough, you can add supplements to her food to make up for the lack of calcium.

Mammary gland infections, particularly the teats, are a common problem so you should them frequently. As her puppies get older and teeth grow in, these infections can occur. Mastisis can set in within a day of birth; watch for purple spots around the glands and check for fever. These and other infections are common and is easily treated with topical creams.

Agalactia is another problem in which bitches will produce too little milk (or none at all). A vet, on the first examination, can usually tell if this is a problem and will take measures immediately.

Although the conditions and problems above are serious, you’ll find that whelping is a very natural and healthy process, with little care required from you. Most dogs produce healthy puppies and will be fine after birth.

Every hunter who goes out into the field with his dog should carry a first aid kit: both for himself and one for his dog. You never know when something will happen and being prepared is likely to decide whether the injury is taken care of or becomes a real issue. There are plenty of good first aid kits gun dogs you can buy.

Your dog is depending on you to care for him at home and out on the field. After all, this is your responsibility. In the event that your dog becomes hurt, will you be prepared to treat his wound with sanitary medical dressing? That’s the difference between being prepared and using an old shirt or rag, which can actually lead to deadly infections and make the injuries worse. It’s worth the couple extra dollars to have a first aid kit for dogs on hand.

Here are some good hunting dog supplies to look for in a good gun dogs first aid kit:

A First Aid Guide
The first aid guide will show you basic first aid for dogs for both small injuries (like wound treatment for scraps) and life-threatening injuries (like mouth-to-snout resuscitation). There should be clear instructions for the use of all items contained within the first aid kit, as well. To be best prepared for emergencies, you should read the first aid guide and learn the basics before emergencies happen. The keyword here is “emergencies” — first aid is not the replacement for regular veterinary visits.

Don’t Forget The Tweezers
Small and often forgotten, these little pincers are a Godsend when you have slivers to remove. Just like in humans, a splinter that enters a dog’s foot pad or another part of the body can bury itself in the skin and work its way deeper, eventually becoming an abscess. This abscess will become infected and could spread its infection throughout the body.

Good old Hydrogen Peroxide
Hydrogen Peroxide typically costs less than $1 per bottle and is a must have for any first aid kit (human or canine). It provides for sterilization, wound cleaning and can even help you deal with the area of a splinter before and after you are done removing it.

Remember Iodine?
Iodine is the perfect solution to use to help encourage healing on a wound. This is a bit stronger than peroxide and helps clean wound or cut more thoroughly before you dress the wound with a sterile bandage or pad.

Antibiotic Ointment
These are off-the-shelf ointments that can be used to help with bee or wasp stings, abrasions, or other small injuries.

Eyewash
A simple saline solution for washing out the eyes can make your dog’s life much easier and save his vision in some cases. When your dog gets something in his eye that he can’t get rid of on his own, use this to clean them. A quick squirt into the eye and nature will do the rest in most cases.

Trauma Pad
A trauma pad is crucial if your dog is seriously injured; it will help minimize bleeding and help keep the wound bound as well as providing assistance in transporting your dog to emergency help. When shopping for a trauma pad watch out that the sizing is correct for your dogs needs.

Gauze, Tape, and Scissors
Simple tools that, when used correctly, can greatly help your dog in times of injury. If your dog is cut, scratched, or similarly hurt, you’ll want to bandage, gauze over, then tape the wound so it is protected from infection. These three tools can do that job quickly.

Don’t ruin a great hunting dog first aid kit by not having a first aid kit for your dog! Not having one is irresponsible and dangerous, so make sure you have a nice, complete kit for your dog at all times, especially when you’re out on the field. Getting an extra one for home or other use is also a great idea.